The décolleté style made shawls to become an essential feature of dresses. Retrieved 20 Dec Our Thirties covers have caught even the most explosive poops. Comments are not for promoting your articles or other sites. A light wool suit for the boardroom.
As a result, the middle of the decade saw sleeves flaring out from the elbow into a funnel shape; requiring undersleeves to be worn in order to cover the lower arms. Skirts lengthened, while widths increased due to the introduction of the horsehair crinoline in ; becoming a status symbol of wealth.
Extra layers of flounces and petticoats, also further emphasised the fullness of these wide skirts. In compliance with the narrow waist though, skirts were therefore attached to bodices using very tight organ pleats secured at each fold. The s style was perceived as conservative and "Gothic" compared to the flamboyance of the s. Necklines of day dresses dropped even lower into a V-shape, causing a need to cover the bust area with a chemisette.
In contrast, evening dresses featured a Bertha , which completely exposed the shoulder area instead. Bodices began to extend over the hips, while the sleeves opened further and increased in fullness. The volume and width of the skirt continued to increase, especially during , when rows of flounces were added. Nevertheless, in , skirts expanded even further; creating a dome shape, due to the invention of the first artificial cage crinoline.
The purpose of the crinoline was to create an artificial hourglass silhouette by accentuating the hips, and fashioning an illusion of a small waist; along with the corset. The cage crinoline was constructed by joining thin metal strips together to form a circular structure that could solely support the large width of the skirt.
This was made possible by technology which allowed iron to be turned into steel, which could then be drawn into fine wires. Meanwhile, the invention of synthetic dyes added new colours to garments and women experimented with gaudy and bright colours.
Technological innovation of s provided women with freedom and choices. During the early and middle s, crinolines began decreasing in size at the top, while retaining their amplitude at the bottom. Bodices on the other hand, ended at the natural waistline, had wide pagoda sleeves, and included high necklines and collars for day dresses; low necklines for evening dresses.
However, in , the female silhouette had slimmed down as the crinoline was replaced by the bustle, and the supporting flounce overtook the role of determining the silhouette. In order to emphasise the back, the train was gathered together to form soft folds and draperies . The trend for broad skirts slowly disappeared during the s, as women started to prefer an even slimmer silhouette. Bodices remained at the natural waistline, necklines varied, while sleeves began under the shoulder line.
An overskirt was commonly worn over the bodice, and secured into a large bow behind. Over time though, the overskirt shortened into a detached basque , resulting in an elongation of the bodice over the hips.
As the bodices grew longer in , the polonaise was thus introduced into the Victorian dress styles. A polonaise is a garment featuring both an overskirt and bodice together. The tournure was also introduced, and along with the polonaise, it created an illusion of an exaggerated rear end. By , skirts began to taper in the front and were adorned with trimmings, while sleeves tightened around the wrist area. Towards to , bodices featured long but even tighter laced waists, and converged at a sharp point in front.
Bustles lengthened and slipped even lower, causing the fullness of the skirt to further diminish. Extra fabric was gathered together behind in pleats, thus creating a narrower but longer tiered, draped train too.
Due to the longer trains, petticoats had to be worn underneath in order to keep the dress clean. However, when approached, dresses moulded to fit the figure,  as increasing slimmer silhouettes were favoured. This was allowed by the invention of the cuirass bodice which functions like a corset, but extends downwards to the hips and upper thighs.
Although dress styles took on a more natural form, the narrowness of the skirt limited the wearer in regards to walking. The early s was a period of stylistic confusion. On the other hand, the growing popularity of tailoring gave rise to an alternative, severe style. However, these movements did not gain widespread support. Others noted the growth in cycling and tennis as acceptable feminine pursuits that demanded a greater ease of movement in women's clothing.
The bustle made a re-appearance in , and it featured a further exaggerated horizontal protrusion at the back. Due to the additional fullness, drapery moved towards the sides or front panel of the skirt instead.
Any drapery at the back was lifted up into poufs. Bodices on the other hand, shortened and ended above the hips.
Yet the style remained tailored, but was more structured. However, by , the silhouette transformed back to a slimmer figure again. Sleeves of bodices were thinner and tighter, while necklines became higher again. Furthermore, an even further tailored-look began to develop until it improved in the s. It evolved into a bell shape, and were made to fit tighter around the hip area.
Necklines were high, while sleeves of bodices initially peaked at the shoulders, but increased in size during Although the large sleeves required cushions to secure them in place, it narrowed down towards the end of the decade. Women thus adopted the style of the tailored jacket, which improved their posture and confidence, while reflecting the standards of early female liberation. Hats and gloves were crucial to a respectable appearance for both men and women.
To go bareheaded was simply not proper. The top hat, for example, was standard formal wear for upper- and middle-class men. During the early Victorian decades, voluminous skirts held up with crinolines , and then hoop skirts , were the focal point of the silhouette. To enhance the style without distracting from it, hats were modest in size and design, straw and fabric bonnets being the popular choice.
Poke bonnets , which had been worn during the late Regency period , had high, small crowns and brims that grew larger until the s, when the face of a woman wearing a poke bonnet could only be seen directly from the front. They had rounded brims, echoing the rounded form of the bell-shaped hoop skirts. The silhouette changed once again as the Victorian era drew to a close. The shape was essentially an inverted triangle, with a wide-brimmed hat on top, a full upper body with puffed sleeves, no bustle, and a skirt that narrowed at the ankles  the hobble skirt was a fad shortly after the end of the Victorian era.
The enormous wide-brimmed hats were covered with elaborate creations of silk flowers, ribbons, and above all, exotic plumes; hats sometimes included entire exotic birds that had been stuffed. Many of these plumes came from birds in the Florida everglades, which were nearly made entirely extinct by overhunting.
By , early environmentalists like Adeline Knapp were engaged in efforts to curtail the hunting for plumes. By , more than five million birds a year were being slaughtered, and nearly 95 percent of Florida's shore birds had been killed by plume hunters. The women's shoes of the early Victorian period were narrow and heelless, in black or white satin. By s and s, they were slightly broader with a low heel and made of leather or cloth.
Ankle-length laced or buttoned boots were also popular. From the s to the twentieth century, heels grew higher and toes more pointed. Low-cut pumps were worn for the evening. During the s , men wore tight-fitting, calf length frock coats and a waistcoat or vest. The vests were single- or double-breasted, with shawl or notched collars, and might be finished in double points at the lowered waist. For more formal occasions, a cutaway morning coat was worn with light trousers during the daytime, and a dark tail coat and trousers was worn in the evening.
Shirts were made of linen or cotton with low collars, occasionally turned down, and were worn with wide cravats or neck ties. Trousers had fly fronts, and breeches were used for formal functions and when horseback riding. Men wore top hats , with wide brims in sunny weather. During the s , men started wearing shirts with high upstanding or turnover collars and four-in-hand neckties tied in a bow, or tied in a knot with the pointed ends sticking out like "wings".
The upper-class continued to wear top hats, and bowler hats were worn by the working class. Girls' Benton Springs Fleece Jacket. Girls' 4-Piece Pajama Set.
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